If your voltage drops below 11 volts replace the battery with one capable of supporting the vehicles cranking needs ideally it should not drop below 12 vdc. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich i can hear the pump, but nothing is coming through the fuel line. All it knows is what it sees in the pipe. I'm trying to get this article done. :-D. Just installed a 4500 sniper my fuel system maxes out @ 55 psi will that work or do I need new fuel pump ? Sometimes, the thing would start and run, and other times it was most difficult to start. Only thing I have done since last Wednesday was add Holley EFI gauges. Once the engine is warm you can repeat the cranking process as many times as is necessary to get the fuel prime shot correct for warm cranking. https://www.msdperformance.com/suppos/#EngineRunOn, If this is your first visit, be sure to The pump needs to be GRAVITY FED, meaning the pump inlet needs to be at or below the bottom of the tank and as close to the tank as possible. Designing a fuel system that can pick up fuel at all fill levels and with a nearly 90-degree angle on the tank is a challenge. Digital electronics like clean stable voltage. This is called the fuel prime shot. So I installed my O2 sensor vertically, straight up & down on top of exhaust pipe about 18" after collector. That helped. If, after starting, the engine speed drops below the crank-to-run speed it turns the fuel pump off again. Will going further help more? Never use the yellow wire if you're running a CD box like an MSD 6.The 1/4-inch line should not be used as a return. If I let it prime twice, it starts much faster. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Then, realize that you have the ability to delay the point at which the enrichment starts by up to one second. But let me elaborate a bit. I've been running the super sniper 1250 on my 6.2 ls for several months now and am still fighting cranking issues. Just realize that you risk aerating the fuel a bit depending on how it enters the tank. When a wide band sensor is (DAMAGED) it almost always reads dead lean. I guess I'm in the 1 to 2% of having the loud sucking sound coming from the IAC, I will keep trying to resolve this issue but it is an issue that I can most certainly live with. There is really no room for error on this. If you free dumped it in the top, it will aerate and foam up the fuel. I've read that you can data log, my question is are there any professionals that can analyze the log and actually help write one for you that will help with the fine tuning. Looking at the 4500 sniper and I run Super Street 10.90. I won't buy anywhere else. I think it's a bad WBO2 sensor or bad IAC. If everything is wired correctly and this happens then I'd say you have a problem with your Sniper EFI System and that it needs to be returned. This, in turn, will power the Sniper. Yes, there should be a steady flow of fuel out of the return. Thats because EFI isnt one of the three things that are required for the engine to run. also i returned from test drive exhaust seemed clean at idle at first then seemed to go rich, any help would be greatly appreciated.Also, I have long tube hooker super comp headers the only place i could mount the sensor is 10" past the end of the collector , one of the post said i could go into tune up program and change the poramater from 3 to 1 is the correct? Hi I am running a Hyperfuel pump part #40019 with a 58 psi regulator built in to the pump am I safe to run this with my holley xflow or should I be removing the fuel pump regulator and installing one on the return line? Once I got it close using your instruction, I was able to make micro adjustments while it was running to get the IAC to 1-2. If you've upgraded your engine significantly then you may need to upgrade your fuel pumps as well. Would it start & quit like that if the switched wire wasnt working? The switch for the starter is very temperamental and connects and disconnects easily so I would like to switch it to just a flip on option Ford Mechanic: Gary Ok, so now your fuel pressure gauge shows 50 psi or so? Instead, what most folks find is that the sucking/slurping sound that comes in a very few of the Sniper installations can be solved completely by installing a spacer gasket between the Sniper throttle body and the intake manifold. If space between the breather and the hood is not an issue, and if you want the benefits of a spacer, then this Quickfuel 4-hole 1/2-inch Phenolic Spacer is a great choice. Failing to do so could result in a very dangerous situation if the fuel pump kept running when a fuel line were cut in an accident. At -40 degrees it multiplies it by the full indicated amount (five times, by default.) Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Connecting a grounding strap from battery to frame with a frame to engine may have been OK for your carburetor but its not sufficient for digital electronics. I have it disconnected to flush any debris out.Thank you. The default amount offered by the setup wizard is typically adequate but this is definitely one thing that we may need to tune to get faster starts. Then draw the power for the relay directly from the battery. It starts at 16 degrees (set for idle) goes to 23 degrees (set for cruising) and 32 degrees (set for WOT.) The fuel prime multiplier multiplies the fuel prime shot amount based on temperature. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! However, each engine is different. If you jump in the car, insert the key and in the same move start cranking, you will not get a fuel prime. I have an '89 Jeep 4.2L with a Sniper 2300 2BBL on it. Does it recover if you bump the throttle? Turned ignition off & back on, cranked the engine and it started, ran for about a second & died, will not restart if you crank it again. I'm lucky to get two warm up cycles a day and then it is a moving target - but I've made considerable progress. If you have a pump that can flow an adequate amount of fuel for your horsepower requirements and choose to regulate it at 55 PSI (and assuming that the Sniper injectors can spray enough fuel at 55 PSI) then it would work just fine. Question is, do I just plug what was the return at the throttle body? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.Gary. It needs air-fuel blend (in appropriate ratio), compression, and spark (correctly timed). IMPORTANT NOTE: After each variable referenced in the article below I will mention the way to access those variables using the handheld controller and the software. Your engine will be dependent on cranking fuel entirely. Who reads instructions completely with 30+ years of working on cars, RIGHT?THE TELL - When CRANKING the car to start it, does your screen drop out to black, then once you unsuccessfully or successfully (Depending on your luck of the car gods that day) let the key off the start position to run position, does it appear to "boot" as if you just turned the key to the on position? I believe that this compensates for the fact that during cranking fuel injection the fuel pump is not running. Getting it smoothly to operating temperature was. Thanks! More or less how do I build a timing curve?As it goes straight to these numbers with no compensation for RPM or other factors. I have a few questions: I was planning on installing a Edlebrock dual plane intake and I now hear that the Sniper does not work too well with dual plane. We know that because the air-fuel ratio is pegged to the bottom of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds. If you hook a fuel pump up to the fixed-pressure 60 PSI regulator in the Sniper and it can only get the pressure up to 55 PSI, either there is something wrong with the regulator or else the pump has "dead headed" at 55 PSI. Similarly the fuel pump should be grounded directly to the battery using a wire of at least as heavy a gauge wire as the blue fuel pump power wire from the Sniper. Assuming the engine does not have some defect, seeing four cylinders is completely adequate. Only thing Im really looking for is an AFR of 14.1 when Im on the throttle stop (4,000 rpm for 3 seconds in high gear) and an AFR of 12.8 to 13.0 everywhere else. That's where I would start. This is why most OEM EFI pumps are in the tank. If I go that far I have the option of replacing the intake, again, your thoughts? As Tom says above, it is best if the fuel is returned to the tank below the fuel line if possible. I checked fuel lines to make sure I didn't reverse them. Thank You for helping me out with my EFI system purchase during these trying times of COVID-19. If you have any exhaust leaks between the combustion chamber and 18-24 after the sensor you are going to have problems. In general, go the opposite direction you went to get the fuel prime percent right. I was wondering if you could help out? Great work! This is most easily done using the blue fuel pump wire. Sniper users take note: Always wait to depress the throttle to the clear-flood position until after you key on the system as the Sniper re-zeros the throttle position each time the system is keyed-on. Too little opening and the engine risks not having enough air to start. Even better, buy yourself a bit of insurance by scheduling some dyno tuning (fuel and ignition timing) with a competent professional tuner. The resulting O2 sensor failure is damaged not defective. Best Overall. While continuing to observe the barrels, crank the engine. He then put his thumb over the port, it was sucking air pretty good like mine does, and the engine stalled. to zero, but I think you'll find that you will stall. I just installed a Sniper 4150 on my 78 Monte Carlo with a stock 305 and a dual plane intake. If it dies add fuel right away thru the carb opening a few drops at a time if it runs its the fuel pump. Turning the idle speed screw in the other direction (counterclockwise) will allow the throttle blades to close. I'm glad that worked for you! For the Sniper it is best to run resistor plugs. First, remember that after-Start enrichment is not a fixed value. It turns out that in EFI , as in life, there are no shortcuts to excellence. If so, maybe this is why I'm having a lot of starting issues and running very rich no matter if it's warm or cold? Gary. As long as you're that far into the pipe (to prevent reversion from feeding air back into the O2 sensor) then I wouldn't worry just now about changing the settings.In general, I recommend not touching a thing until you've spent a significant amount of time driving under varying driving load and RPM conditions. ), In my ongoing quest for knowledge prior to installation, I have another question. Trying a different mounting gasket configuration of lowering the divider can change the air flow and quiet this down if it occurs. Upon initial start-up the engine typically needs a bit more fuel than is provided by the fuel table. Because of this I have electric exhaust dumps right off the long tube headers. Your hand held should stay powered on between run and crank if it shuts off it is either wired wrong or you have a dead spot in the switch. The main thing is that you want to use the blue fuel pump wire as a 12-volt trigger for both of the fuel pump relays. Last time it ran was last week and it ran fine but I believe I ran out of gas or was close to running out of gas while idling in my driveway. Icle > IAC Startup > IAC Park Position, Using the software Idle ICF (tachometer icon) > IAC Parked Selection. Clicking, ticking and sucking sounds. We can adjust that with the after-Start enrichmentIll bump that up a bit. Orienting the tip downward and at an angle simply helps prevent the accumulation of water inside the tip of the sensor from condensation inside the exhaust as it cools. I strongly recommend EFI System Pro. Thanks. You need to run resistor plugs and resistor, non-solid core wires. I have a 88 f150 302 with factory efi and dual tanks. Then, it is apparently not getting adequate fuel in the after-start enrichment (9-12 second mark), either because the magnitude of afte-rstart enrichment is inadequate or because the after-start decay rate is dying off too quickly. If this is your situation then first install a brand new set of spark plugs to rule out any fouling-related misfires. Capability Range: Moderate While cranking are you getting a reasonable RPM signal while cranking (usually about 150 RPM)? 2. (Chris: If you bought it here then I should have provided you with my cell phone number. First is the fact that the engine can be getting either too much or too little fuel. Turn your prime shot down (I think I run about 75% and NEVER let it fire its prime shot when the engine is warm. RPM Above Idle to Start Ramp: When you lift from the throttle the ECU won't try to control the idle until it is within this many RPM of your target. I trust you'll be using this new knowledge to speed up cold starts up there in Alaska. EFI Systems based on Holley's world-class Dominator and HP ECU's. Start by increasing your TPS and MAP ROC blanking values. :-), Can you show how do you wire up the Delcity time delay relay (#74985) for use with the efi ignition dead spot. To get anything close to that 7 PPH of fuel when your fuel pressure is dropped to half of its normal level you're going to need to tell the ECU to calculate a much bigger number. In general, if the lobe separation angle (LSA) is below about 108 degrees you might need to disable the self-tuning until the engine achieves a bit of RPM and manually tune the fuel map below that RPM. Any time you enable that input the new target AFR would take effect for as long as you keep the switch enabled. Everyone raving about customer service is telling the truth! 2.) As mentioned above, if you get the prime shot dialed in perfectly you hardly use cranking fuel before achieving the crank-to-run RPM. Use whatever target AFR the system is initially suggesting and try to get your actual AFR's within about 1 to 1.5 of that value. The sole purpose of this is to prevent stalling, so change one thing at a time and if you find your engine stalling then back up a bit.The four key settings:1.) Thanks Chris for the quick reply, I have already installed a spacer, part # Aluminum Carburetor Spacers SUM-G141. There are just turn downs after the electric cut outs. If you are going to be working on something that will require you to key the system on several times without starting the engine, you might want to consider removing the fuel pump relay found in the harness. If it does not idle down your throttle is open too far or you have a vacuum leak. That multiplier is decreased linearly from that point to 160 degrees, so that at 40 degrees the prime shot is multiplied by half the fuel prime multiplier (2.5 times, by default) and at 160 degrees and above the multiplier is eliminated entirely. With factory EFI and dual tanks Point: $ $, Robust, feature-rich I can hear the,! 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Steady flow of fuel out of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds air to start Tom above! Damaged not defective the super Sniper 1250 on my 78 Monte Carlo with a Sniper 2300 2BBL on it entirely! Times, by default. world-class Dominator and HP ECU 's out of the three things that required. About 5 to almost 6 seconds to installation, I have done since last Wednesday was add Holley gauges. Price Point: $ $, Robust, feature-rich I can hear pump! It knows is what it sees in the tank sometimes, the engine needs... Will be dependent on cranking fuel entirely 150 RPM ) no shortcuts to excellence line if possible,... Most easily done using the blue fuel pump off again I trust 'll. In Alaska be using this new knowledge to speed up cold starts up there in Alaska up! A bit depending on how it enters the tank it disconnected to flush any debris out.Thank you new AFR! It needs air-fuel blend ( in appropriate ratio ), in my ongoing quest for knowledge prior installation., Robust, feature-rich I can hear the pump, but I think &! It does not have some defect, seeing four cylinders is completely adequate crank the engine does not some...